Bartaco, recently open and already popular at 464 N. Midvale Blvd., takes SoCal #beachlife and packages it as a portable brand, much like Portillo’s did for the Chicago diner and Applebee’s did for bland Americana. The interior of bartaco, which opened in February near the Apple Store and Macy’s in Hilldale Shopping Center, looks like a rich friend’s beach house, with a fireplace and whitewashed wooden walls.