Entering Central Coast restaurant, which opened in December, it's obvious that huge sums of money have been spent on the interior of the building. A towering beamed foyer, masses of contemporary art glass and curvilinear blond woodwork give it the look of a high-style ocean beach house ready for an Architectural Digest photo shoot.

Owners Larry and Sherry Starkweather further demonstrate their affinity for the West Coast by naming their restaurant for California's Central Coast wine region of California, and by serving wines from the region exclusively.

California and French cuisine is emphasized, but since this is Jefferson County you can still count on a Friday night cod special, with nods to other ethnic food. At the high end of the spectrum are Saturday nights in Sherry's Room with a prix fixe five- to seven-course French menu paired with Central Coast wines. Another method of running up a monster tab is by ordering weekend specials such as Kobe beef in a chocolate wine sauce for $45 or a 20-ounce porterhouse for $56.

Then again, $10 will buy a Roasted Vegetable Napoleon, and in between there's a regular menu, along with numerous weekend specials, in a wide price range.

The two soups on the reqular menu are French Four Onion Gratinee and Shrimp Bisque along with a soup of the day. One of them, the Manhattan Clam Chowder, demonstrated the kitchen's light-handed deftness that was seen elsewhere in menu. Diners are entrusted with shakers so they can salt and pepper to taste. The chowder contained plenty of tender clam and tender potato chunks, and the broth was less creamy than most.

The middle- to lower-priced entrees include worthy options. The 12-ounce Bourbon Marinated Ribeye was well-marinated, adding tenderness to a cut not known for that, and evenly cooked and finished with a lovely Cabernet demi-glace. The airy, souffled potatoes spun with portobello mushrooms, and another side of fresh aspargus rounded out the plate perfectly.

You normally don't expect walleye to arrive looking glamorously staged on the plate, but the Mustard Glazed Walleye fillet here was draped in a theatrical swoon over a colorful mound of orzo studded with vegetables, and drizzled with a sweet pepper oil in a moist, congenial flavor collaboration.

The Banana-Chocolate Spring Roll jumped off the dessert menu (there are seven, plus homemade ice creams and sorbets), and it's much more than a novelty item. The "spring roll" is

actually flaky phyllo pastry, rolled around a nuanced mixture of good- quality chocolate, ripe banana and cream cheese, served with a side of house-made praline ice cream in a little cookie cup and a caramel sauce. Although the description sounded over the top, it was not too sweet, and entirely delicious.

By the end of summer a ballroom dance club will open in the building, and by January 2009, a separate banquet hall should be completed.

Restaurant: Central Coast

Location: 1905 Central Coast Lane, Fort Atkinson

Specialties: French and California cuisine

Contacts: 920-568-9695; info@centralcoastrestaurant.com

Hours: Tuesday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; special once per month Saturday night dinners in Sherry's Room

Price range: Appetizers $5 to $14; soups $4 to $7; sandwiches $7 to $12; entrees $10 to $56; Friday night fish $12; desserts $4 to $7; Sherry's Room prix fixe menus vary but are usually $62 per person plus wine pairing

Smoking: No

Credit cards: Accepted

Accessibility: Yes

Reservations: Accepted (required for Sherry's Room)

Bottom line: A beautiful environment with seating for 70, excellent service, an interesting and varied menu. Not recommended for young children; a few nods are made toward vegetarians. Outdoor patio seating. About 70 types of Central Coast wine available.