FOOD
77 Square is the definitive arts, culture and entertainment guide for Madison, Wis., and the surrounding area.
Get lost in 'Beermuda Triangle'
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Souls do tend to disappear in the mysterious east side region we call the "Beermuda Triangle." But don't worry -- they usually reappear a couple of hours later, often with smiles on their faces and a new favorite beer.
In the triangle, formed by two newly refurbished bars and a popular brew pub, patrons can try a dizzying variety of draft and bottled beers.
Dexter's Pub (301 North Street) is earning a well-deserved reputation as a not-to-be-missed destination for beer lovers, as is the Malt House, which opened this spring in the old Union House bar at 2609 E. Washington Ave.
Dexter's and the Malt House are just a couple of blocks apart. The nearby Ale Asylum (3698 Kinsman Blvd.) sells its own craft brews, and its beer garden is a fun summer quaffing spot.
Over the course of several days, and all in the name of serious beer research, a group of friends -- some serious beer geeks and others of us who don't know a hop from happy hour -- trekked to all three bars to sample and rate the brews.
These days, the phrase "beer connoisseur" is not an oxymoron. The popularity of American microbrewed beers has opened up a whole new world of stouts, porters, ales and lagers, with flavors from malty to hoppy to fruity.
Beer drinkers are also increasingly aware of traditional old-world beers that provided inspiration to today's generation of brewers.
We began our tour at Dexter's, which has earned a loyal customer following since opening last October. It's easy to see why, with the pub's better-than-average bar food, an extensive bottled beer menu and more than a dozen (regularly changing) brews on tap.
It's got a happy vibe, with televisions tuned to the obligatory ball games and patrons cheerfully chatting about sports and, naturally, beer.
Owner Nick Zabel is an enthusiastic, self-confessed beer geek with encyclopedic knowledge. He clearly takes pride in showcasing rare and unusual beers, and in bringing interesting microbrewers to Dexter's to talk with customers.
"I'm finding that people don't just want to drink the beer. They want to know about it, too," he said.
Our group particularly liked Pyramid Apricot Ale, Stone's Oaked Arrogant Bastard and our friend Lindsay's favorite: Central Waters Mudpuppy Porter.
"I know what I like, and it's called Mudpuppy," she said. She described it, accurately, as almost chocolatey.
I have to confess, after drinking the Apricot Ale, I could develop the same kind of single-minded loyalty. In fact, I went back three days later to Dexter's for another glass, this time with a cup of carrot/chili/cilantro soup. It was delicious.
If Dexter's is like a comprehensive but accessible college intro to fine beer, the Malt House feels like graduate school, with the courses taught in a foreign language.
It's the kind of bar that doesn't exactly put out the welcome mat, with the sign fronting East Wash still bearing the name Union House.
Once inside, there's still the sense that if you've got any questions, maybe it's not your kind of place. But the rebuilt bar is gorgeous, and there's an impressive display of glasses designed especially for various varieties of beer.
There's no television, which I find a relief, and the music on the sound system was an appealing blend of rootsy artists like Steve Earle and Susan Tedeschi.
The Malt House specializes in Belgian beer, and our group got right down to business with a St. Bernardus Prior 8, a Paraat Golden Strong Ale, a Pauwel Kwak, a Chimay ale and a Kasteel rouge.
A favorite was the Kasteel, an elegant fruit beer with a cherry nose and a flavor so intense that it drove out any notion of any other flavor, or the desire for any other flavor. It was amazing.
The Pauwel Kwak was also a standout, both for its smooth but multilayered taste and for its presentation, arriving in a glass that required a wooden stand to remain upright. The bartender told our friend Jane she was in for an experience, which was accurate.
We would have benefited from more background regarding Belgian beer. Although the bartender was quite attentive, we would have learned more and likely enjoyed the experience more with a true enthusiast guiding our foray into foreign territory.
When we arrived at the third leg of our journey, the Ale Asylum, we were hungry, and happy to order from a menu that not only included Ale Asylum's fine assortment of house brews but also included some very tasty pizza.
The flight of beer at Ale Asylum is a bargain, with 6-ounce glasses available for $1 each. There are currently eight beers on tap. We tried Hopalicious, Ambergeddon, Big Slick Stout, Happy Ending, Contorter Porter and a beer called Diablo. Doug gave a thumbs up to Hopalicious, and the rest of us especially approved of the Contorter Porter, which stood up quite favorably even after an afternoon of tasting some of the world's best beers on tap.
With comfortable tables and chairs, and attractive plantings, the Ale Asylum beer garden is a fine spot to enjoy an off-the-beaten-track summer night.
At the end of our journey through the Beermuda Triangle, the consensus was that Dexter's was the most fun, and the spot where we were most likely to learn something remarkable about beer while watching a ballgame. The Malt House featured dazzling beer in an environment suited to conversation. And for a great price, Ale Asylum offers fine beer in a fine setting.
Dexter's Pub is open from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Thursday; from 11 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday; and from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday. The Malt House is open from 4 p.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday, and from 4 p.m. to bar time Friday and Saturday. Ale Asylum's hours are 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Wednesday, and 11 a.m. to bar time Thursday through Saturday.